Martin FrimetDelicately different Breadwell gets it just right
April 21st 2008 00:57
Walking through some parts of Melbourne’s CBD looking for a late lunch, it can sometimes seem hard to find anywhere that doesn’t fit into a certain, almost identikit profile. Countless central cafes offer the same line in clear glass frontage, straight black tables and do-it-by-heart sandwich or salad options. Many of these places, of course, are good at what they do but few are memorable for it. Breadwell cafe however, buried amongst a stack of eateries on Flinders Lane, clearly has other ideas and, from start to finish, does things just a little bit differently.
Breadwell’s attempts at making a stand come before you even step in the door, as its rather peculiar emblem, a kind of heraldic, bread-giving hero, draws your eye from way down the street.
Inside for the first time and the quirkiness continues.
Deep red lighting, mosaic lampshades and sunken brown seats are none of the things that I would expect to associate with a successful cafe but, at Breadwell they all pull together to create a calm, almost cosy atmosphere, forgetful of the cavalcade of suits and phones and smokes just outside the front door. This fine atmosphere was augmented by music that was high enough to cover any cracks in conversation but low enough not to cause any. Almost best of all, service was more than competent without being plastered with the kind of cynical sweetness that I find much of Melbourne cafe culture possesses.
Further, and just as its slightly minced make-up had made me take things at a slightly unexpected angle, so the menu options at the Breadwell came from somewhere not quite centre.
Yes, sandwiches were of course on offer here, but Breadwell’s selection took old flavours and ideas and seemed to want to rework and re-offer them in a way that few other places across the city care to do. Thus, roast turkey came served with home-made cranberry sauce and a tingling relish while my ham roll came with smoked paprika, egg and fresh salad. Like so much else at Breadwell, it didn’t sound as if it should work, but, in fact, these were classic flavours that formed a smooth harmony, the smokiness of the ham and the sharp of the paprika stinging at first but then being balanced beautifully by the creamy egg and soft, well-buttered bread.
Breadwell also had options for the rather more ravenous or more curious than that. A thick polenta slice, a golden lamb, tomato and olive pie or a plate of robust-looking meatballs with Turkish bread may all have sounded as if they had one ingredient too-many, but uniformly looked great, and although we weren't able to taste them on our first visit, all disappeared quickly enough from the plates of those around us.
And with so much success already, we overrode our queries about its odd, end-of-the-batch appearance and tried one of cafe’s chocolate crunch slices on our way out. Once again, this attested to the simple genius at work at the Breadwell, as a rich chocolate coating - just the right side of gooey - smothered a soft biscuit centre; a sweet but not sickly treat that looked like a slight mistake but tasted like a minor miracle.
As conservatively priced as it is liberally-flavoured, Breadwell is full of fun ideas yet never strays so far from established practices to be garish and, as interesting as it is edible, is an ideal stop for anyone nearby looking for a cool quick bite or a longer, lusher lunch.
Breadwell
135 Flinders Lane
Melbourne
Breadwell’s attempts at making a stand come before you even step in the door, as its rather peculiar emblem, a kind of heraldic, bread-giving hero, draws your eye from way down the street.
Inside for the first time and the quirkiness continues.
Deep red lighting, mosaic lampshades and sunken brown seats are none of the things that I would expect to associate with a successful cafe but, at Breadwell they all pull together to create a calm, almost cosy atmosphere, forgetful of the cavalcade of suits and phones and smokes just outside the front door. This fine atmosphere was augmented by music that was high enough to cover any cracks in conversation but low enough not to cause any. Almost best of all, service was more than competent without being plastered with the kind of cynical sweetness that I find much of Melbourne cafe culture possesses.
Further, and just as its slightly minced make-up had made me take things at a slightly unexpected angle, so the menu options at the Breadwell came from somewhere not quite centre.
Yes, sandwiches were of course on offer here, but Breadwell’s selection took old flavours and ideas and seemed to want to rework and re-offer them in a way that few other places across the city care to do. Thus, roast turkey came served with home-made cranberry sauce and a tingling relish while my ham roll came with smoked paprika, egg and fresh salad. Like so much else at Breadwell, it didn’t sound as if it should work, but, in fact, these were classic flavours that formed a smooth harmony, the smokiness of the ham and the sharp of the paprika stinging at first but then being balanced beautifully by the creamy egg and soft, well-buttered bread.
Breadwell also had options for the rather more ravenous or more curious than that. A thick polenta slice, a golden lamb, tomato and olive pie or a plate of robust-looking meatballs with Turkish bread may all have sounded as if they had one ingredient too-many, but uniformly looked great, and although we weren't able to taste them on our first visit, all disappeared quickly enough from the plates of those around us.
And with so much success already, we overrode our queries about its odd, end-of-the-batch appearance and tried one of cafe’s chocolate crunch slices on our way out. Once again, this attested to the simple genius at work at the Breadwell, as a rich chocolate coating - just the right side of gooey - smothered a soft biscuit centre; a sweet but not sickly treat that looked like a slight mistake but tasted like a minor miracle.
As conservatively priced as it is liberally-flavoured, Breadwell is full of fun ideas yet never strays so far from established practices to be garish and, as interesting as it is edible, is an ideal stop for anyone nearby looking for a cool quick bite or a longer, lusher lunch.
Breadwell
135 Flinders Lane
Melbourne
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