Martin FrimetBubbling Baths defy expectations
April 28th 2008 04:37
Sorrento, 90 km east of central Melbourne on the beautiful, beach-laden Mornington Peninsula, suffers something of an image problem. According to local legend, for example, it is the area with the highest concentration of tennis courts per square metre in the whole world; though one wonders whether the residents of Malibu or Monaco might have something to say about that, there is certainly no shortage of white lines and net cords on view behind the massively managed hedgerows and towering iron gates that mask so much else of Sorrento.
Probably unsurprising then, Sorrento now has something of a reputation of being overly pricey and pretentious to those outside of this tennis glitterati; worth a weekend for its brilliant beaches and smooth surf but a little sickly for too much longer than that is the general gist.
Furthermore, with many of Melbourne’s most affluent now calling Sorrento home (or second home at least), so prices for everything from a pint of milk to a piece of land have grown prohibitively high in recent years. Thus, on our last morning in town, my friends and I finally decided to make a hesitant, hungry trudge towards The Baths restaurant, which lies idyllically set apart, Hemingway-esque, at a spot at the very centre of Sorrento’s front beach. We hoped at least to get a glance at a menu but expected to be quickly chastened away by either high prices or some high-chinned haughtiness.
We should, however, have reserved our judgement and turned up sooner. The Baths’ first nod towards the more down-to-earth came as soon as we realised that the premises has now been fitted with a small fish and chippery at its rear, offering the best in local seafood at very reasonable prices. Those kind of straightforward sensibilities continued as we waited to be seated in the main dining area.
Everything about The Baths had a gentle, genuine air. Thus, a recent re-fit had eschewed expensive expressions in favour of light, clean lineage and large, open windows which made the most of The Baths’ prime asset - its unbeatable view onto the curvaceous, captivating Port Phillip Bay. The dining room had clearly been fitted out to offer as many people as possible a clear view out onto the water – ours was spectacular – and, as simple a concession as it sounds, it is one I fear many other restaurateurs in this position may have overlooked in favour of forcing something of their own personalities onto the place.
Family-run, The Baths is also just as happy to play for the kids as it is to pander to the adults. Thus, the breakfast menu includes coco pops as well as a special cooked kids’ option, while a table of ten-year-olds behind us could barely contain their glee as a row of spiders (a scoop of ice cream splashed into a fizzy drink for the uninitiated or un-Australian) arrived for them.
Though we waited a while for both food and drinks on the school holiday Sunday that we visited, service was clearly at full-speed and was always accommodating and, when our order did arrive, it proved worth the wait.
A cooked breakfast with bacon, eggs and hash browns was gratifyingly greaseless, while avocados, tomatoes and eggs on toast was a simple mixture yet one which trumpeted the full flavours of products that were clearly well-sourced and than well handled. Best of all were my eggs di mare, which brought together flowing poached eggs, meltingly soft smoked salmon and a sharp hollandaise into one lush, luxurious mouthful.
A refreshing visit in so many ways, breakfast at The Baths not only enlivened me for the drive back into the city but also served as a simple reminder never to rate a restaurant by its postcode or position.
The Baths
3278 Point Nepean Road
Sorrento
Probably unsurprising then, Sorrento now has something of a reputation of being overly pricey and pretentious to those outside of this tennis glitterati; worth a weekend for its brilliant beaches and smooth surf but a little sickly for too much longer than that is the general gist.
Furthermore, with many of Melbourne’s most affluent now calling Sorrento home (or second home at least), so prices for everything from a pint of milk to a piece of land have grown prohibitively high in recent years. Thus, on our last morning in town, my friends and I finally decided to make a hesitant, hungry trudge towards The Baths restaurant, which lies idyllically set apart, Hemingway-esque, at a spot at the very centre of Sorrento’s front beach. We hoped at least to get a glance at a menu but expected to be quickly chastened away by either high prices or some high-chinned haughtiness.
We should, however, have reserved our judgement and turned up sooner. The Baths’ first nod towards the more down-to-earth came as soon as we realised that the premises has now been fitted with a small fish and chippery at its rear, offering the best in local seafood at very reasonable prices. Those kind of straightforward sensibilities continued as we waited to be seated in the main dining area.
Everything about The Baths had a gentle, genuine air. Thus, a recent re-fit had eschewed expensive expressions in favour of light, clean lineage and large, open windows which made the most of The Baths’ prime asset - its unbeatable view onto the curvaceous, captivating Port Phillip Bay. The dining room had clearly been fitted out to offer as many people as possible a clear view out onto the water – ours was spectacular – and, as simple a concession as it sounds, it is one I fear many other restaurateurs in this position may have overlooked in favour of forcing something of their own personalities onto the place.
Family-run, The Baths is also just as happy to play for the kids as it is to pander to the adults. Thus, the breakfast menu includes coco pops as well as a special cooked kids’ option, while a table of ten-year-olds behind us could barely contain their glee as a row of spiders (a scoop of ice cream splashed into a fizzy drink for the uninitiated or un-Australian) arrived for them.
Though we waited a while for both food and drinks on the school holiday Sunday that we visited, service was clearly at full-speed and was always accommodating and, when our order did arrive, it proved worth the wait.
A cooked breakfast with bacon, eggs and hash browns was gratifyingly greaseless, while avocados, tomatoes and eggs on toast was a simple mixture yet one which trumpeted the full flavours of products that were clearly well-sourced and than well handled. Best of all were my eggs di mare, which brought together flowing poached eggs, meltingly soft smoked salmon and a sharp hollandaise into one lush, luxurious mouthful.
A refreshing visit in so many ways, breakfast at The Baths not only enlivened me for the drive back into the city but also served as a simple reminder never to rate a restaurant by its postcode or position.
The Baths
3278 Point Nepean Road
Sorrento
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