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Street food comes in from the cold at Hawker’s Cafe

April 10th 2008 23:44
Call yourself a hawker in front of most Australians, and they will probably look straight down at the ground and add an extra spring to their step to get away from you. However, where street sellers are somewhat of a dirty habit in some countries, across much of Asia they are just part of the daily routine, and can often provide the savvy buyer great clothes, gifts and foods at unbeatable low prices.

My experience with hawkers began in the small Asian town where I did my stint as a TEFL teacher; a relatively quiet place, the streets came strangely alive at night through a parade of small caravans, wedged in side by side and full of busty old women proudly stirring, mixing and serving their assorted meal offerings. I would go to one of these almost every night for a cheap, deeply filling shot of spicy stew or assorted fish and vegetables in a light batter and, ever since that time, I have harboured a deep affection for street food. Thus, on seeing a sign for the Hawker’s Cafe 2, on Glenferrie Road, I could feel my heart jumping and my taste buds welling within seconds.


Though this place was different to what I was used to in so many ways - a spacious interior and actual seats being among the major ones – it also felt similar in many ways. Our waitress was clearly proud of the range of dishes she had to offer us, and she spent several minutes talking us through the menu and advising us about what might and might not be worth trying. Her smile never wavered and, in the face of that and the cafe’s simple, well-lit interior, I couldn’t help but feel relaxed, almost at home again.

On a relatively quiet Sunday night, our food arrived quickly. First impressions were good, with each dish pocked with colour and presented with a control board of relevant sauces and salads. First, from China, was a dish of Hainanese Chicken on rice, which was tender and tasty and served with a pleasingly potent slick of chilli sauce. From Malaysia, Mee Goreng was a whirl of addictive egg noodles, mixed with chicken and vegetables which tingled easily on the palette, while Murtabak were delicious Indian pastries with assorted fillings which excellently rounded off our mini Asian-tour.


Despite obvious success which has seen the Hawker’s Cafe open this second branch in double-quick time, prices still remain true to the street food spirit, with mains hovering around the $10 mark and service, fast and efficient, is similarly authentic. For some, the idea of a homage to hawkers may still be too much but, for everyone else, this place should be stored as one of Melbourne best cheap-eat secrets.

Hawker’s Cafe 2
752 Glenferrie Road
Hawthorn
80
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